The Ha Giang Loop - Ultimate Guide For The Adventurous
Views of the endless, rugged mountain terrain on the Ha Giang Loop.
Whenever anyone asks us, “What was your favourite experience in Vietnam or Asia?” Our first answer is always the Ha Giang Loop! It seriously was the best and most memorable four days of our lives.
The views of the amazing limestone cliffs as we cruised through valleys and windy, mountainous terrain were the most beautiful views we have ever seen. We stopped in local villages and spent our nights sleeping at homestays with other travelers. It was such a unique and authentic experience, opening our eyes to a different side of Vietnamese culture.
The Loop Logistics
What is the loop?
The loop is located northeast of Vietnam, in the Ha Giang Province, and is a windy 370 km stretch of road. It starts from Ha Giang and drives through mountainous terrain, ethnic local villages, and majestic turquoise rivers. The road borders China in some areas, climbs steep mountains and descends into valleys. It's easy to understand why it's one of the most beautiful roads in the world.
How Long is the Ha Giang Loop?
This depends on the tour you choose or how long you would like to take to complete the loop on your own, but most people spend 2 nights and 3 days or 3 nights and 4 days doing the loop. This allows ample time to stop at the many viewpoints, villages, and rivers along the way.
We chose to do the 4-day, 3-night tour, and we were so glad we did because day 3 and night 3 were our favourite stretch of road on the loop with the most unreal views. If you choose to do the 2-night, 3-day tour, you miss out on some sections of this road and parts of the tour. If we had chosen 3 days, it wouldn’t have felt long enough.
After all, if you’re travelling all that way to do the loop, you may as well do it right and do the whole loop, right? Why cut it short by one day if you’re already there, we say!
The Best time of year to experience the Ha Giang Loop?
When we did the loop, it was the end of October/ beginning of November, and we had picture-perfect weather. It was 25-30 degrees most days, with blue skies and crystal clear views, and the evenings were only slightly cooler in temperature.
The best time to do the loop is in Autumn (September- November) as the days are warm, but the evenings are cooler, and there is minimal rainfall. Or in Spring (March- April) as temperatures are pleasant and there is the least rainfall.
During the summer, from May to August, it's very hot and humid, and when the north experiences the most rain. December to February is the north of Vietnam’s winter and they experience below-freezing temperatures and sometimes even snow!
Most tours run all year round despite this weather. You will have to make sure you come prepared for the varying weather conditions and pack accordingly!
How to Get To ha Giang?
Most people will likely travel from Hanoi to Ha Giang if they aren't already in the north. The most common way to travel in Vietnam is by bus, so unless you’re a more luxurious traveler and prefer to pay for a private van, you will likely catch a sleeper bus to Ha Giang.
The drive from Hanoi to Ha Giang takes roughly 6-8 hours, and you can take an overnight bus or a bus during the day.
As the drive was only 7 hours, we chose to catch a bus during the day and then stay a night in Ha Giang the day before our loop so that we could get a good night’s sleep and wake feeling fresh for day 1. However, some people get the overnight bus to save money on a night's accommodation and then start the loop the day they arrive.
You can book your buses online with 12GO and the price varies from $15-$40 AUD.
Is the Ha Giang Loop Safe?
From our experience on the loop, we felt very safe. Of course, this depends on your driving abilities and whether you choose to drive yourself or hire a driver.
The roads were windy, but most were paved and in good condition. Some days, there were some unpaved gravel roads and potholes, but if you take it slow, concentrate, and take the proper safety measures, you should be okay. The roads were never too busy, either, and you always felt like you had enough space around you.
Sharp turns can occur, and sometimes, you can't see what's around the next corner, so it's always best to take it slow, ensure you’re wearing a helmet, use a horn to identify drivers you can’t see, and wear protective gear if needed—the usual safety precautions!!
Always ensure you have travel insurance. We highly recommend Safety Wing because you can pay on a monthly basis, and they cover you all over the world.
Viewpoint from one of our coffee stops on day 2.
Can I drive the loop on my own or should I do it with a tour group or guide?
The loop can be driven as a self-guided tour, but this means you will need to be confident on the roads, know your route, and book all your accommodations in advance.
Most people opt to do the loop through a tour group or hire a guide because it takes the hassle away from planning the trip. Going through a tour usually means all your accommodation is booked for you, three meals a day are provided, and your guide will be able to take you on the best/safest route and show you the best pit stops and viewpoints along the way. This means all you have to do is rock up, take in the views, and soak it all in.
Can I drive on the loop myself or should I hire a driver?
On the loop, whether you opt for a tour or take a self-guided tour, you can choose to drive the motorbike yourself or hire a driver, who they call an easy-rider in Vietnam.
When making this decision, you should ask yourself the following questions:
Am I a confident driver?
Have I driven on roads in mountainous terrain and windy roads before?
Can I drive and concentrate on a scooter for at least 8 hours a day for 3-4 days straight?
Do I have a valid motorbike license?
How you answer these questions should determine what you choose to do. The easy riders in Vietnam are mostly from Ha Giang and have been driving these roads their whole lives. Most drivers in Vietnam start driving scooters at a very young age and drive the loop at least 100 times a year. In other words, you can trust these drivers.
Also, as much as you want to drive yourself, are you legally able to comply with Vietnam’s motorbike laws?
Motorbike laws in Vietnam
To drive a scooter in Vietnam, you need a motorbike license, which must be converted to an international license so that it's valid in Vietnam.
If you don’t have a license and are pulled over by the police, they will likely fine you. The fines are usually around 1 million Dong (roughly $62 AUD), but this could vary depending on the policemen.
During the loop, we saw a few roadside police stops, and many people in our tour group who were self-driving were pulled over and had to pay the fines. They could keep driving for the remainder of the loop, but be aware it may come with a hefty price tag if you don’t have a motorbike license.
We chose to opt for the easy rider because we wanted to be able to sit back and take in the views each day. It felt like we had our own private chauffeur. Our job was simply to sit there and be an excellent passenger princess, snap photos all day, sip our coffees and just relax while our drivers took care of us.
We had a few guys in our group choose to drive themselves, and they really enjoyed it. But, they mentioned they wished they could have taken in the views more because they were so concentrated on the roads they struggled to look up and actually see what was around them. They also said after being on the road for 4 days and nearly eight hours a day, they struggled to concentrate, which showed because these guys had three crashes. All of these accidents happened when we were nearing the end of the day and they were clearly very exhausted. Luckily, no one was hurt badly, just a few grazes but this is something to consider.
Josh with his very sweet easy rider.
THE FUN PART:
ITINERARY, THE BEST TOUR COMPANIES AND OTHER FACTS TO HELP YOU PREPARE FOR THE BEST 3-4 DAYS OF YOUR LIFE!
Roadside bevys on the Ha Giang Loop.
The Best tour company to do the loop with based on your travel style? Mama’s Homestay,
We chose to do the loop with Mama’s Homestay, and we couldn't rave about them more. They were unreal. Our drivers took such great care of us. The food we had each day was delicious. The stops they took us to had the most amazing views. The group’s vibe was just what we were looking for, as it attracted other backpackers close to our age. It made for an epic four days.
However, if you prefer a more intimate group tour with fewer people and want something more chilled with less partying in the evenings, then Mama’s may not be the right fit for you. Which is okay because there are so many other tour companies to choose from.
I highly recommend choosing the tour based on your preferred travel style because it could make or break your experience. Below, I have made some suggestions of alternative tour groups to travel with based on your style of travel.
If you want to meet other backpackers in their 20s to early 30s, don’t mind travelling in large groups, staying in shared accommodation, and parting in the evenings at your homestays, then I recommend:
Mama’s homestay
Bong, Jasmine
Mad Monkey,
Buffalo tours.
If you prefer to travel in smaller groups, looking for a more chilled out vibe in the evenings and more private accommodation, I recommend:
Ha Giang Motor Ventures
Lilainn Tours
Local Ha Giang.
You can book your tour directly with the tour company or if you want to compare different tour groups, you can book online via Get Your Guide below!
How much does it cost?
This price will vary depending on what tour company you choose to travel with, whether you stay in shared accommodation or upgrade to private accommodation, whether you do two nights or three nights, and whether you self-drive or hire an easy rider to take you on the loop.
We chose Mama's Homestay because it was one of the cheaper companies to do the loop with and was more within our backpacker budget. We paid roughly $280 AUD (4.5 million dong) for an easy rider and shared accommodation.
Based on our research and when we decided which tour company to do the loop with, the prices ranged from around $200 AUD up to $500 AUD.
THE LOOP - ITINERARY AND ROUTE for 3 nights and 4 days
The most standard route that most will take:
Day 1
Ha Giang passing through the Tam Son province and ending Day 1 in accommodation in Yen Min.
Day 2
Yen Minh to Lung Ca which is the town bordering Northern Vietnam and China. You will then travel back down to stay in Dong Van for the evening.
Day 3
Dong van - Meo Vac and continuing onto Du Gia for the night.
Day 4
Du Gia - Back through Tam Son province and ending in Ha Giang.
Map from Mama’s Homestay of the Ha Giang Loop Route
What to expect each day on the loop with Mama’s homestay.
Everyone’s experience will be different based on how you travel and who you opt to do the loop with. But everyone travels on the same roads, and the things that stay the same are the amazing views and the general route. The information below gives people a great idea of what to expect if they choose to do the tour with Mama’s Homestay, but if you choose to go with another tour group, the information below will still be helpful to know what type of views and towns you’ll be going through.
Day 1
Our group consisted of about 80 people, but we were split up into smaller groups while riding, with around 10-15 of us per group. We set off at 9 a.m after meeting our easy riders and headed towards Tam Son province. Within minutes, we were welcomed with stunning views as we climbed the mountains that line Ha Giang province. The first few hours were filled with stunning views of rice fields as we climbed higher into the mountains.
We made regular stops at different viewpoints every 30 minutes or so and stopped for lunch at around 1 p.m. After lunch, we travelled through a little village and watched the local women weave and handmake cotton before we continued to climb up the mountain range.
We arrived at our accommodation in Yen Minh at around 4 p.m. and spent the afternoon sitting around the pool and enjoying a drink with our new friends before dinner. The happy water came out at 7:30 p.m and that's when the karaoke and dancing on top of the tables started too.
Poolside drinks after a successful first day on the loop.
WTF is happy water?
Happy Water seems to be iconic to the Loop and Vietnam. I wish we could tell you precisely what it is, but it seems to be Vietnam's version of cheap vodka or rice wine.
Day 2
Our second day began nice and early, with breakfast and coffee being served at 7:30 am, and we hit the road by 8 am. Within minutes, I was blown away by how different the views were today compared to day 1. The winding roads were a lot more intense, and rather than climbing the mountain ranges, it felt like we were driving directly through the middle of the rugged mountains and winding roads. We travelled through more small villages than we had on day 1. We passed schools and were welcomed by many children waving at us from the side of the roads - It was so sweet!
We arrived in Dong Van at around 12 pm and had lunch at the accommodation where we would be staying that night, but the day wasn’t over yet.
After lunch, we got back on the bikes and made our way up to Lung Ca, the town across from the Chinese border. It was an out-and-back road, so once we arrived in Lung Ca, we had some time to walk up to a viewpoint where we could see the China border. We stopped at a mountainside coffee shop on the way back to take in the views.
It was pretty cool to be able to say, “We have seen China” with our own eyes!
Pointing the Chinese Border
Day 3
This was our favourite day of the loop for several reasons. The first hour involved driving on windy roads and climbing a mountain. We were so high that we felt like we were on top of the world, but as we looked over the mountain’s edge, we would look down into valleys of villages and amazing blue rivers.
This was also the day we travelled on one of the most intense dirt roads yet. Most of the roads up to this point had been properly paved over roads in great condition, but as we travelled down into Meo Vac, it was loose gravel road on the side of the mountain. One bad fall, and there would be no stopping you from going over the edge.
But the gnarly road down into Meo Vac was worth it because once we got to the bottom of the hill, we were rewarded with a boat ride on the Nho Que River. It's an out-and-back boat ride up the river on the most beautiful, teal waters. The river goes directly through the Tu San Canyon and is surrounded by towering limestone cliffs. We were so lucky and had a beautiful, sunny day, but even on a cloudy day, I’m sure these views would be beautiful.
After our boat ride, we climbed back up the gravel road we travelled down and made our way towards Du Gia. We stopped for lunch and at a few cafes with the best views of the valleys and unique rock formations we had seen yet!
Once we arrived at our accommodation in Du Gia, the drinks followed, the music was pumping, and the pool party vibed. As this was our last night on the loop, it's fair to say it was a big night for everyone. Mama’s knows how to throw a party!
Amazing views from the pool. Best way to end day 3!
Day 4
Our last day of the loop started slower, as there were a few sore heads, and today was the shortest travel distance we had to go to get back to Ha Giang. The morning started with a swim at a local waterfall only 5 minutes from our accommodation. But be aware: This waterfall seems to be visited by many tour groups, so it's very busy.
We then began to make our way back to Ha Giang. The views were similar to day 1, as we travelled back on the same roads that we had travelled on day 1, but we made stops at different cafes and viewpoints. We took in the last of the views, and there was a sadness in the air, knowing that the four days were ending and we would have to say goodbye to our easy riders and awesome group.
On day 4, we returned to Mama’s in Ha Giang at around 4 p.m. Mama’s can arrange outgoing transport to your next destination, and most people either head back to Hanoi that night or take buses to Sapa and Cat Ba, too.
Curing the hangover with a swim at the waterfall.
Conclusion of the tour with Mama’s
We loved our time with Mamas. The easy riders were amazing, and the staff at the accommodation each night were beyond helpful. Mama’s caters to more budget backpackers, as the accommodations are basic, the group is big, and each night was filled with partying and karaoke. If you prefer a more intimate and chilled experience of the loop, I would recommend another tour group.
However, if you want to be with a social group like Mama’s but don’t want to be in shared accommodation, you can also upgrade to private accommodation for an upgraded experience.
Accommodation on the loop
Most accommodations are homestays or basic hotels. The villages you stay in are small and isolated, and amenities are basic. If you’re doing the tour with a group like Mama’s, you can share rooms with up to 30 people. It's basic dormitory-style accommodation, but you can upgrade to private rooms for an additional cost.
Food on the loop with Mama’s.
Our breakfast was always the same: egg and Banh Mi with coffee. Lunches and dinners consisted of sharing plates of a mixture of foods, including fried rice, stir-fried noodles, spring rolls, vegetables, and a mixture of chicken and pork dishes most of the time. It was always DELICIOUS; we were so happy with the food!
Packing Essentials
This depends on when you’re doing the loop as the weather varies throughout the year drastically but its better to be overprepared for the loop in terms of clothing.
The days are long, and if you haven’t packed enough clothes, there’s nowhere to buy extra layers for most of the tour. There are some pharmacies in the small villages, but they’re very limited in what they supply because they’re so isolated. So, it's best to be overprepared in terms of medication and the correct clothing.
What bag can I bring?
Your bag gets tied onto the back of your bike and you’re only able to carry a small day bag with you. You’ll likely leave your big bags/ suitcases back in Ha Giang. You’ll only have room in your bag to pack the absolute essentials so its important to priortise what you really need.
The Musts:
Runners/ Sneakers
Waterproof jacket
Extra layers of clothing. Even if you’re travelling in the dry and hot seasons, the nights cool down and can get cold as you’re at a high altitude. The mornings are generally quote cool to and you feel it when travelling at 80kms an hour on a motorbike and in the shade.
Bathers/ swimmers
Comfortable clothing - I know this may seem silly, but you’re sitting on a bike for 8 hours a day. You don’t want to be stuck in denim shorts or long, flowy dresses.
Sunglasses
Face buff for dust (optional)
Beanies, gloves, scarves for the colder seasons
Toilerteries and other essentials
Suncream
Toothbrush
Paracetamol
Hydralites and electrolytes
Playing cards
Portable charger
Bandaids
Water bottles as most hotels will have refillable stations
Views from the rive cruise on day 3.
Rapid fire hot tips for the loop.
COFFEE - There is no shortage of coffee on the loop. Every 10 minutes, you will pass roadside coffee stands, which are so cheap!
SNACKS - There is no need to pre-buy snacks. You stop at least every half an hour at viewpoints, and most stops have little coffee and snack sides where you can buy chips, ice cream, fruit, and chocolate. Sometimes, they even have BBQ grilling chicken and pork on sticks and sandwiches, too.
ITS PHYSICAL ON THE BODY - If you have bad knees or cramp quickly, bring the essentials that will make you more comfortable. The days are long, and sitting with your knees bent for so long can ache and cramp your body.
BUM COMFORT - Buy an additional cushion for your seat if your bottom goes numb quickly.
CASH IS KING.- There are few ATMs, if any, and no one accepts cards on the loop. Have enough for four days to buy snacks and drinks and tip your driver.
DRIVE- in the right lane.
TAKE LOTS OF PHOTOS - Have enough phone and camera storage - every 2 seconds will leave you in awe.
WATER IS ESSENTIAL - Stay hydrated and take breaks - you may not realize it but its physically demanding and exhausting on the body.
Happy girls with best views ever!!
Conclusion
No matter your age, whether you’re a backpacker or a luxe traveller, the Ha Giang Loop is something everyone should see and experience with their own eyes. I understood why it's so popular and why people rave about it within the first day of being on the loop.
Josh and I, lived in the mountains in Canada, have hiked mountains across Europe but have never seen rolling hills, limestone cliffs and rugged mountain terrain as we have in the north of Vietnam. It's so unique and different to anywhere else in the world and there's no better way to experience it than feeling the thrill of riding through it on the back of a motorbike.
So, if you were looking for a sign to do the Ha Giang Loop, this is it!
Book it now, and return to this blog to help you plan and prepare for happy riding!!
Views from our first coffee stop on day 2.